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After Prada faced backlash for copying India’s traditional Kolhapuri chappals, Dior is under scrutiny for using Indian embroidery without giving credit. Dior’s latest collection features mukaish work, an old embroidery style from Lucknow but the brand did not mention anything about its Indian origin.

Jonathan Anderson, Dior’s new creative director, showed his first collection in Paris on June 27. The show had many celebrities in the front row, including Robert Pattinson, Rihanna, and Daniel Craig.

A gold and ivory coat from the collection caught people’s attention. Fashion commentator Hanan Besnovic shared a video explaining that the coat used mukaish work and said that 12 Indian artisans spent 34 days making it. However, Dior did not name or credit them.

Also Read:Kolhapuri vs Prada: Heat over ‘copying’ GI-tagged chappals flares as luxury brand walks over tradition

Besnovic’s video led to strong reactions online. Many people asked why Dior didn’t recognise the Indian artisans. Some said Dior’s previous designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri, used to give proper credit to Indian craftspeople. One person wrote, “I wonder how much of the $20,000 coat goes to the people who actually made it. Probably not more than $500.”

This comes just days after Prada showed sandals that looked like Kolhapuri chappals in its men’s collection. After backlash, Prada accepted that the design was inspired by India and said they may work with Indian artisans in future.

Louis Vuitton also recently launched a collection called “A Voyage to India.” One of the most talked-about items was a Rs 35 lakh handbag designed to look like an Indian auto-rickshaw. It had wheels, a handlebar, and the usual yellow top. The bag was made using the brand’s signature canvas and golden logo.

The runway show also featured themes from Indian street life, truck art, and even the snakes-and-ladders game. Indian architect Bijoy Jain designed the stage, and the music was by composer A R Rahman.

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Online reactions were mixed. Some joked that you could buy 15 real autos for the price of the bag. Others asked why Indian designers are not given the same attention when they use similar themes. One person wrote, “If I see someone step out of their car with this bag, I will be speechless.” Another asked, “Will they charge for this bag by the meter?”

Still, some people praised the creativity but said that brands should give proper credit and fair pay to the artists behind the designs.

Global brands are not just using Indian culture for design. They are also focusing on India as a key market. A report by Bain & Company said India’s luxury market could reach $90 billion by 2030. It is expected to grow 3.5 times from its current size.

Another report by McKinsey & Company and The Business of Fashion, said India will see the fastest growth in the number of ultra-rich people between 2023 and 2028. The market is also growing due to more luxury stores in big cities and a rise in young, wealthy buyers.

Even though the luxury market is growing in India, the global fashion industry is facing challenges. The global luxury industry is staring at its sharpest disruption in more than 15 years, as economic instability and cultural shifts weigh heavily on consumer sentiment, according to Bain & Company's report.

While the sector ended 2024 on a relatively optimistic note due to a jump in tax-free shopping across Europe and a temporary lull in US market volatility, this year brings a very different outlook. Rising geopolitical tensions, currency swings, trade disruptions and financial market instability are all making luxury buyers more cautious, the report noted.

Bain’s findings also highlight how cultural changes are further shaking the luxury market. Brands are now grappling with not just economic headwinds, but also a growing disconnect with younger buyers especially Gen Z who are increasingly questioning the value and meaning of luxury.

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